News
Kilimanjaro Trip
Tuesday 18th January 2011
From Linda...
I have spent the Christmas break in Tanzania visiting my youngest son Ben in Tanzania and whilst there attempted to climb Africa's highest mountain Kilimanjaro, which stands at 5985 metres above sea level-that's over 19,000 feet for us oldies who have yet to go metric!
This took 6 days, 4 to climb up the mountain and 2 to come down!
Day 1 is very easy with a gentle walk through a beautiful rainforest full of monkeys and birds and fabulous scenery ending at the first overnight stop of Mandara hut. We had 2 mountain guides and they instructed us very clearly that we should be "pole pole" all the way which means "slowly!" The pace was VERY slow - frustratingly so in fact but by day 4 and 5 we understood why - the going gets tough!
The group slept in wooden huts in bunks that night before being got up again at 6.30am to the sound of the porters calling "washy washy" as they bring a small bowl of water for everyone to get their morning wash before breakfast. Then by 7.30am it's off for day 2 of walking. This was a tougher day with about 8 hours of walking up to the 2nd nights stop at Horombo Hut at 3,600 metres.
The facilities were becoming a little more basic now and the scenery was beginning to change from lush green trees and abundant wildlife to a more dry and arid landscape with limited animal life - even the mosquitoes don't live at this altitude or temperature. It was getting cold now even though we were so close to the equator. That night we slept in thermal vests and trousers, t-shirts, walking trousers, thermal socks, fleece, hat, scarf and, in one case, a balaclava! As well as sleeping bags of course!
Day 3 began again at 6.30am with "washy washy". Today though the walking would be easier as it was seen as important that we had an acclimatisation day to help us with fighting off altitude sickness. At the high altitudes we were expected to suffer from the lack of oxygen and spending a day here may help our bodies get used to this, making the final ascent less traumatic - in theory! We walked from Horombo hut to the beautiful Zebra Rocks and then back to Horombo for a 2nd night.
Day 4 was a 7 hour ascent to the final hut - the most basic of all - Kibo Hut. By now the landscape was almost lunar! Nothing but volcanic rock and ash for miles around and the air was very thin. We were told to go to bed as soon as we arrived despite it being only late afternoon which we were glad of as breathing was hard work and energy was at a premium. After 2 hours though we were all got up again and told to eat. I woke up though with a chronic headache and felt very sick so food was just not an option for me and I went straight back to bed.
Everyone else followed after eating - but not for long! At 11.30pm we were all told it was time to begin out final ascent to the summit - Uhuru Peak. Dressed in thermals and many more layers - including 2 pairs of socks and 2 pairs of gloves - as well as head torches and a rucksack with water and yet more layers we set off in the moonlight.
Although I was feeling much better now, because I had not eaten our main guide, Anthony led the way and I was told to follow immediately behind him. 'Pole Pole' though!! Approximately 1 step every 2 seconds and on a very steep incline. The moonlit mountain was beautiful and we all played word games to keep our minds focussed on the task in the darkness. It was very surreal.
Sadly, 4 hours into what ultimately took 10 hours, I began to feel short of breath. Very quickly this became very frightening and I had to stop. After 5 - 10 minutes of being unable to breathe and getting very panicky Anthony gave the instruction that I was to be taken back down. Apparently, this is dangerous and could lead to loss of consciousness - not good 5500 metres up a mountain! So I was VERY quickly taken back down the scree pathway by our other guide Richard to allow my breathing to improve and I was sent to bed with very strict instruction!! I had failed with only 485 metres to go!
I am very proud to say that Ben, my sister and her partner and friend all made to the summit successfully. They all suffered other symptoms of altitude sickness, vomiting, violent headaches, diarrhoea, hallucinations and exhaustion but they made it!! Never again they all said - as have I - yet Ben is planning to do it again with my eldest son in April. He MUST be crazy!!
Thanks to all who sponsored me in this mad idea and raised money for Home-Start, and for those who have not yet done so, you still have time and it would greatly appreciated. Click here to go to the Just Giving website.